Friday 28/07/06

The engineer calls round to repair the central heating / hot water boiler. Early in 2005, mrs B's previous boiler suffered catastrophic corrosion in the combustion chamber, leading to a large escape of gas. The engineers finally recommended replacing the boiler, but not before hundreds of pounds worth of gas had escaped. I think that adequate ventilation in the boilerhouse prevented a major disaster. This morning, it's not very nice weather, quite dreich. One couple staying here are awaiting an improvement: they have a long wait ahead of them, it turns out to be a completely wet day. The German chap goes for a bustour of the West Side, Callanish, Carloway and Gearrannan. At 2.30, I take mrs B out to another ancient monument, the Homestead at Steinacleit, just outside the village of Shader, 15 miles north of Stornoway, 4 miles north of Barvas. Before we set off, she buys a raincoat and wellies. There is this very fine drizzle, and with the low cloud you can't see a lot. Arrive at Shader at 3pm. We slowly amble down the wee road towards Loch an Duine. This contains a Dun, a fortification on an island, linked to the shore by a causeway. A car stops along the road, asking us where the Steinacleit homestead actually can be found. The sign at the bottom of the track has disappeared, and unless you have a map or know the area (I fall in both categories), it's impossible to work out. The road turns into a bumpy peatroad after the turn-off for the monument. A muddy track leads uphill, through the open moor. The Homestead is more of a burial mound, surrounded by an oval shaped wall. To the east, an area of uncut peat, standing about 4 ft in height, was left to show what depth of peat the monument was dug out of. We walk along the oval wall, reflecting on those that built it, 3,500 to 3,800 years ago. After that, we make our slow way back to the main road, admiring the flowers. There is still a splendid display, but there are signs that this is now coming to a close for this year. The bus comes on time at 4.15. Today is the day of the Barvas Agricultural Show, which is being held in the machair behind Loch Street. There are no buses to carry people the 1 mile from the main road. I attended the show last year, when it was being held outside the community centre along the Stornoway road. Return to town at 4.45 as it pours with rain. Macaroni cheese for supper. Have a chat with the German, who is amedical doctor. He sailed in the schooner Thor Heyerdahl, which is still in port. He sailed in her to Shetland, the Faeroes and Iceland. Tomorrow, he plans to head to South Harris. He booked accommodation in Borrisdale, just west of Rodel.