Saturday 08/07/06

Fairly bright and breezy morning with a threat of showers. Mrs B's son hires a car for the next few days. We set forth just before 1pm, first into town to get money and fuel. It's very busy. Not just the usual Saturday crush, but it's the start of Festival Week; last night's ferry was packed out, and late on account of the sheer volume of traffic. It's a bit showery as we drive up the Lochs Road, to turn off at Cameron Terrace towards Garynahine along the A858. We head west, along the B8011, over the Grimersta River and then north along the B8059 to Great Bernera. It's fairly sunny here and the drive through the hamlets of Lundal, Crulabhig and Iarsiadar is very scenic. Once over the 1950s bridge to Great Bernera (which replaced a dodgy ferry cum rowing-boat), we quickly reach the main village, Breacleit. On the far side of Loch Roag, to the east, the village of BreaScleit can be made out, distinctive with the fishoil factory on the pier. Our first destination is the tiny beach at Tobson, on the western side of Bernera. It is infested with washed-up, dead and stinking jellyfish. From there, we return to the main road and head up to Bosta. This is uninhabited. There is only a cemetery, a beautiful beach with a stunning view and an Iron Age House, or a scientist's impression of how it could look. It's not open on Saturday; from Monday to Friday, you get a guided tour for £2. A herd of cows mooch about, with calves suckling and a bull strutting his stuff. We laze on the beach ,paddle in the water, tide was coming in. I look round the cemetery to find one Iolaire-related grave, as well as a memorial plaque for two young fishermen who were lost at sea, never to be found again - in 1984. When we return to the car, no less than 3 motorhomes have rolled up. The main topic of conversation is food. The toilet at the carpark makes overtime. The weather appears to breaking down from the east as we head south across Bernera. At the Bernera Road end, we find a loch full of water lilies. On arrival at Callanish, we head for the restaurant. However, as it's now 4.45, they have stopped serving hot food. We scoop up the 3 quiches, then make our way to the Stones. It promptly starts to rain. Up near the entrance, a local lady is holding forth at a group of gullible tourists. Across the fence, a group of hippies is erecting a tent city. When we reach the centre of the monument, it starts to rain in earnest. Two American ladies ask us to take their picture, which we're more than happy to do. One person hovers around the Stones, wrapped in a cagoule. It stops, and the skylark starts up at once. We glance at some of the hippy tents and their outfits. Next port of call: Tolsta Chaolais, and then the Carloway Broch. Mrs B isn't up to climbing all the steps to the Broch, but I join her son and his friend for the climb. Nothing has changed since the last visit, a few weeks ago. We drive to the end of the Doune Carloway road, then head back to the main A858 road to go through Carloway to Dalbeg. This is a very nice little place with a spectacular beach. The rain returns, and we return to Stornoway via Shawbost and Barvas. In town, we make for the Coop to buy a lottery ticket, but the machine is broken. It's 7.25, lottery sales cease at 7.30 (draw normally takes place just after 8pm), so I hare to the nearby Trading Post shop. The Coop was recently done up, and it looks a lot more spacious than before. Our final excursion leads us to Cuddy Point. There are quite a few yachts in. The uprights have been placed on the lawn outside Lews Castle, in preparation for the musical events of the Hebridean Celtic Festival next week. The canopy is yet to be erected. After this full day, I have a lazy evening, regaling folk to some music on the keyboard. As the day draws to a close, the shower clouds collapse and the moon comes out. It was not very warm today (15C / 60F) and a cool wind blew.